Infrared is not a sauna

This is my blog.  These are my opinions.  I am not some yahoo.  I lived in Scandinavia.  I have been taking saunas for over 25 years.  I know saunas.  I am not Finnish, I am half Italian and a 1/4 German, so I talk half the time and analyze 1/4 of the time.

If you own an infrared, perhaps you could recycle the cedar for a real sauna.  If you are thinking of buying an infrared, don’t.  Do your research.  You are smarter than that.

  • You avoid tanning salons, they give you cancer and turn your skin a weird color.
  • You don’t smoke tobacco cigarettes, same thing.
  • You don’t sweat by stuffing yourself in a microwave oven.

Imagine for a moment you are a sauna enthusiast from Finland, a country with more saunas than cars.  You have grown up with sauna,  a centuries old cultural tradition.  Now, you read and hear about $499 microwave boxes you can assemble in your living room called “infrared saunas.”  Imagine how pissed you would be.  I am waving this flag for all the polite Scandinavians who may only speak up on this topic after 3 sauna rounds and a few beers.  Infrared is not a sauna.

Wood sauna is preferred.  Electric sauna is ok, but Infrared is NOT a sauna.  Infrared is a marketing scam.  Infrared makes unrealistic claims to lure consumers.  Infrared is fueled by light bulbs and sold by guys that used to sell mops and knives at state fairs.  Infrared hucksters hitch their wagons to weight loss, pain relief, homeo whatever therapy, detoxify, and it’s all horse shit.  They have taken real benefits of a Finnish sauna and packaged them up to try to sell their high margin light bulb closets.  But you know this already, you are smarter than this.

Infrared is not a sauna.

Wood burning sauna stove: load from inside or out?

When building a sauna, there are three ways to consider setting up your sauna stove:

  1. Load wood from the outside
  2. Load wood from the changing room
  3. Load wood from inside the hot room

Options #1 and #2 involve using a ”throat” add on to a wood burning sauna stove.  Also, one needs to brick around the throat and sauna, usually a three foot border, for fire retardant.   In the old days, most saunas were built #1, loading wood from the outside.  The main reason for this is that old saunas were inefficient, basically home made iron boxes that burned hot and fast, requiring a pretty much constant supply of firewood.  Finnish ingenuity gave way to the idea that the door to the sauna stove could be steps away from an outdoor wood pile.

As stoves became a bit smaller and somewhat more efficient, people began building wood burning saunas to feed from the changing room.  The theory here is that a small amount of firewood could  be kept dry in the changing room and added to the stove from there.  The main advantage to #2 is that the sauna stove can provide some heat to the changing room.  It is estimated that between 10-15% of a sauna stove’s heat comes from the front of stove.

#3 is my choice.  Today’s sauna stoves are very efficient.  The Kuuma Stove is so efficient that I can take a sauna with 4 pieces of firewood.  By feeding from inside the hot room, I capture 100% of the heat in the hot room, and don’t have to mess around with extensive brick framing.  Also, I can monitor the fire from the sauna bench.

Do I really need a changing room?

mobile-sauna-changing-room-200x300If I had a stick of firewood for every time i’ve been asked this question, I could keep my wood burning sauna stove on idle most of the winter:

1. Double doors. Why do grocery stores all have a double set of entry doors?  Imagine you are a check out clerk at a grocery store and it’s below freezing with 25 mph winds and some old lady is standing in the doorway adjusting her hat.  Now imagine that you build your own sauna without a changing room and some old lady is standing in the open doorway adjusting her hat.  Close the door!

2.  Equalize your body temp. A backyard sauna with a changing room is a wonderful hang out space between rounds.  After a well deserved cold outdoor shower, it’s nice to sit in the changing room and hang out, visit, indulge in a sauna music play list as your body equalizes.   This is not only fun, but important!

3.  Expand your space. A sauna changing room is critical for a sauna party.  Offering hang out zones gives your sauna party structure and expansion.  How come people hang out in the kitchen at parties?

I built my mobile sauna with a changing room for all the above reasons, oh, yea, and you

4.  have a place to hang your clothes.

Click here for the ultimate sauna plan.  It’s the perfect design for a Minnesota sauna or a Finnish sauna or a backyard sauna or even a mobile sauna.

An inexpensive basement sauna

My new virtual friend Jonathon and his dad applied some resourceful upper Midwest ingenuity, building a basement sauna using cheap doors for walls, ceiling.  They were purchased for $1 each at the bargain bin at Menards, our resourceful upper Midwest version of Home Depot.

The creative thing about using doors for walls (despite the obvious) is that being 6’8″ tall, they are a pretty ideal height for sauna walls.

Nice work Jonathon, and thanks for the kind words.  Check out his project here.

Backyard sauna: first outdoor shower of the season

March 14, 2010.  Who would believe it?

Ah, outdoor shower: welcome back, and about a few weeks early to boot!  I laid out my garden hose in the spring sun, softening it up, then hooked it up to my backyard shower.  Happy to report that even in a cold climate like Minnesota, one can enjoy an outdoor shower 8 months of the year.  Here’s my post on the last outdoor shower of the year.

Everyone should have their own outdoor shower, and here’s a way to rig one up for $15.00.

Outdoor sauna: cement or wood foundation?

My 8×12 sauna plan assumes a wood, not concrete floor.

  • 2×6 green rim joists.
  • 2×6 green studs at 16″ or 24″ on center.
  • 3/4″ subfloor,  et voila.

sauna-patio-pine-island-compressed3

Stephen, I know your sauna has a cement slab, and i’ve built a couple saunas with a cement slab base (which could be argued is the “A” job) yet I find with a wood base to your backyard sauna it can be:

  1. built quicker.
  2. leveled easily, even down the road.
  3. moved if you move, of if your partner gets wiggy.
  4. called a ‘temporary structure’ for frowning building code inspectors.
  5. extended easily as a header for a deck (yet I prefer a slate patio with an outdoor sauna, so as to reintroduce the stone medium from sauna rocks to your feet whilst between sauna rounds).

Build you own sauna in 3:48

My good (virtual so far) friend Stephen built his own sauna in North Carolina.  Watch through his video. It’s a great sauna, wonderful aesthetics and touches: slate patio walkway, nestled amongst foliage, and a great outdoor shower. Note Stephen’s OSHA approved sandals:

Speakers in the sauna

Chris, good question.  If speakers fail prematurely in the sauna, it’s still worth it.  Yet I’ve had a great pair of outdoor speakers in my backyard sauna for 8 years now, and they show no signs of breaking down.

  • Use outdoor speakers – made for rougher conditions.
  • Keep your speakers on the floor – out of the way under your benches.
  • It’s actually not that hot or humid along the floor of a sauna – heat rises.
  • Build a box around your sauna speakers  – use the same tongue and groove cedar for a nice look.
  • Venting your sauna with a crack along the bottom of the sauna door is like a cool blow dryer – fresh air is good for the speakers.
  • BONUS: consider playlists of 4-5 minute songs, allowing you to keep track, roughly, of how long you’ve been in the sauna.  I’ve been known to get wrapped up in a 20 minute Fela Kuti or John Coltrane song, and end up needing to be shoveled into bed at night.

for more hot air, click here:

www.saunatimes.com


From: chris
To: gra3512@yahoo.com
Sent: Sun, January 10, 2010 10:15:15 PM
Subject: speakers
Any thought on speakers? My fear is that most speakers are not designed to operate at the high ambient temps of a sauna and will surely fail prematurely.

Build your own sauna door

Here’s part of an email with Josh, who is happily building his own sauna:

Josh..

build your own sauna door

Good question on the sauna door.  I make my own. Here’s what you can do:

  1. Frame and your interior wall, frame for about a 26″x6’5″ sauna door.
  2. Cut a piece of plywood sheathing 3/4″ less than your height and width.  This is the basis for your sauna door.
  3. tongue and groove panel the outside face of your plywood.
  4. Staple foil bubble wrap insulation to the inside face of your plywood.
  5. Tongue and groove cedar the inside of your door, on top of the foil wrap.  Tip: run your siding the opposite direction as your walls, it looks better.  If you really want to be resourceful, you may be able to use your cedar t&g cuts from your walls to make a really cool pattern.
  6. nail in a door stop to your door frame.
  7. Screw in some hinges and a funky wood door handle.
  8. Hang your door.
  9. Leave a slat towards the bottom for air flow. This is the best way to vent your sauna.
  10. Door window:  It’s easy to use a skill saw to cut out for a window.

The end result is that you have a nice solid 2″ door.  (5/8″ plywood, 2@ 5/8″ paneling).

Josh, you going with a Kuuma Stove from Tower?

g.

for more hot air, click here:
www.saunatimes.com



From: Josh Collins >
To: glenn auerbach <gra3512@yahoo.com>
Sent: Mon, December 7, 2009 10:37:58 AM
Subject: Re: Sauna Q’s

Hi Glenn,
I have started building the sauna and noticed that on the materials list there is not a door for in between the sauna room and the changing room, am I supposed to build one, or what would you recommend?  What do you think that the door’s dimensions should be?
Also, do I need to caulk around the durock to seal out moisture?  Is durock able to take moisture?
I am in Northern MN.
Thank you,

Josh

Wood heat vs. electric heat

Is there a difference?  Tell me your opinion.

Considering whether to build a wood burning sauna or an electric sauna?  You may want to read below.. I’ll post all comments.