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More songs about (sauna) buildings and not food.

Andy:

I’ll email you separately regarding drip edge.  Great idea on the 2x space!  Glad you are open to reducing your hot room space.  keep in mind that every cubic foot in your hot room comes at a price: more cubic feet = more BTU’s required.  It’s been an ongoing study for me to maximize sauna hot room size, yet maintain consciousness to it’s BTU cost.  I believe that a 6′ x 7’5″ sauna hot room is ideal.  My Minneapolis sauna can handle 12 people.  http://www.saunatimes.com/2009/04/06/sauna-party-april-2nd-2009-minneapolis-mn-usa/.

Glad you’re moving forward,
Glenn.

for more hot air, click here:
www.saunatimes.com



From: Andy
To: glenn
Sent: Thu, August 19, 2010 10:28:47 PM
Subject: Re: Wood and drainage

All good ideas! I hear your concern with a 10x sauna room. Might use the 2x space for an outside/ inside loading depot for wood. As for the drainage that too sounds like a good idea. I’m not familiar with vinyl cement, though I assure you I’ll do the research. Love the locker idea. And yea I’ll bite, what is a drip edge?

Andy:
I think your hot room is too big.  10×6 is pretty big…could you go with 8×6 and use that 2×6 space for an outside feed tool closet?  have shed doors open to the outside, like a closet.  I have lost count with the number of saunas i’ve been in that have too big of a hot room, they remind me of those yucky cigarette boats, way too much power and inneficient function.
Changing room walls can be whatever you like.  My wife and I are scheming on a changing room with exposed studs, painted white or stained a burnt orange to look old school.   The joist cavities can serve as a great open locker, and frame in a couple 14 1/2″ shelves to hold a beer or two.  Number the locker/joist cavities.. could be slick!
Drainage in hot room:  I”m just finishing a sauna where I used 3 bags of vinyl cement patch kit (40#) from Home Depot.  Assuming your subfloor is level, mark a 1/2″ line along your wall and feather it down to a floor drain.  Then put down some cedar pallet on top of that.  It’s slick.  That product is easy to trowel.  Ask me about a drip edge if you wish.
g.

for more hot air, click here:
www.saunatimes.com


From: Andy
To: glenn auerbach
Sent: Thu, August 18, 2010 10:28:47 PM
Subject: Re: Wood and drainage


I just procurred a 10×16 shed for our sauna.My plan was a 10x6x7 sauna room and a 10×10 changing room. Does the changing room wood need to be same as sauna (looking to save some money.) Also, would like to put drainage in sauna room. My thoughts were rubber 45 mil. membrane over existing plywood and drain somewhere in there? Any ideas??

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