The Perfect Size Outdoor Sauna
- 8×12 structure
- 6×8 sauna room*
- 6×8 changing room
- Dual benches on either side.
- Stove centered along the back wall.
- 2×4 framed construction
- 5/12 roof pitch
- Put a window in your sauna if you have a nice view.
I have been in several hundred different saunas. In each sauna, I have sat on the bench and have considered what’s good, bad, and ugly with the design and construction of each one.
Some saunas are two person saunas, and don’t allow for a good sauna party. Some saunas are bigger than a four person sauna and take too long to heat up, use too much energy or wood. Often, in sauna hot rooms that are too big, the loyly (steam from tossing water on the sauna stove rocks) never reaches you. With divine proportion, according to the Greeks and confirmed by Da Vinci, this 8’x12’ sauna design is my ultimate sauna plan.
This sauna design uses North American standard measurements, minimizing waste in construction and allowing for full cuts of material. It provides a changing room, which is a critical space for privacy and enjoying a beer or libation between rounds, while also serving as a buffer for temperature extremes in cold climates.
Tips for Your Outdoor Sauna
- Frame the interior wall with 2×2’s vs. 2×4’s- just sheath the wall with 1/2″ plywood for rigidity. This is a non load bearing wall, and the extra 1.5″ sure is valuable!
- The interior wall can be nudged slightly to allow for a slightly bigger sauna room (say 6’2″x7’4″ interior dimensions). Four people can fit nicely along a 6’2″ bench, and it’s nice to lay along your sauna bench. A comfy sauna and ample changing room is the goal. Having a bunch of people over for a sauna party? Don’t sweat it! Click here for the sauna party equation.
March 2015 Update
The 3D drawing above may not be the best stove placement. Thanks to Adam’s comment below, here is arguably two different configurations each offering advantages of:
- more standing space.
- less staring at each other on the bench vibe.
- less bumping into the stove ouch.
- asymmetrical flow, best discussed between rounds in the garden all misty wet with rain
Cement or Wood Foundation?
My 8×12 sauna plan assumes a wood, not concrete floor.
- 2×6 green rim joists.
- 2×6 green floor joists at 16″ or 24″ on center.
- 3/4″ subfloor, et voila.
Stephen, I know your sauna has a cement slab, and i’ve built a couple saunas with a cement slab base (which could be argued is the “A” job) yet I find with a wood base to your backyard sauna it can be:
- built quicker.
- leveled easily, even down the road.
- moved if you move, or if your partner gets wiggy.
- called a ‘temporary structure’ for frowning building code inspectors.
- extended easily as a header for a deck (yet I prefer a slate patio with an outdoor sauna, so as to reintroduce the stone medium from sauna rocks to your feet whilst between sauna rounds).
Outdoor Sauna With and Without Electricity
As mentioned in this video here, many country and lakeside saunas don’t have electricity. In Finland and everywhere, many traditional saunas were built before electricity. Also, many saunas are built away from the main house, cabin, or cottage. To the positive, this reality is what helps make the sauna building a true escape: a step back in time and towards simplicity.
Solar and Wind Systems are Becoming More Affordable
Saunas that have been lit exclusively by candle or lantern may now, with the flick of a switch, be powered up like the LM in Apollo 13.
Spend the Extra Time and Cash to Wire the Structure for Lights and Outlets.
A simple hot room light, a couple wall sconces in the changing room, and an outdoor patio light is all that is needed (the power of three). Oh, and put ’em all on dimmers. One can bring power into the structure by wiring an RV electrical plug (expensive) or a simple male plug tucked under the structure outside. The system can be tested and powered for sauna parties by running extension cord from the nearest power source.
Run 12/2 wire from the outside plug under the bottom plate directly to a GFI outlet, then run power to lights and additional outlet(s). This keeps your entire system safe from power surges and accidents eg. when a drunken guest thinks your triple light switch is a sink.
A Nice Foot Mat for Your Outdoor Sauna
Here’s a simple foot friendly outdoor sauna foot mat. I especially like standing barefoot on this cedar slat mat in winter time. The snow, ice, and cold water seep into the ground and my feet stay fairly dry. This floor mat feels much nicer than a plastic floor mat. Just rip some slats from a cedar board or maybe purchase some 1×1 or 2×2 cedar boards from a lumber yard, attach a couple cross supports underneath with a finish nailer, et voila.
93 thoughts on “Outdoor Sauna: Sizing, Flooring, Electricity?”
https://porn-thai.org
www.hothdjizz.com
yea, i linked TO the ‘perfect size for a sauna’ post within a couple pages of my site (build your own, mobile sauna). gotcha.
Yes…Please send me the 3D File
Thanks
keep in touch Bill!
please send me the 3D file, Thanks!
Rebecca:
Bad news: Computer crash, lost the 3D file. Sorry!
Good news: I have the complete building materials list. I can tell you that it’s a basic 8×12 ‘shed’ with a 5/12 roof pitch (or a roof pitch to match your house’s). Interior stud wall to allow for a 6’4″ wide sauna hot room. Want me to send that along? It’s an excel spreadsheet.
Also, I have a basic blueprint, and can scan that sometime soon for electronic forwarding.
Hi Glenn,
Any chance of having the building materials list and blueprint? That would be great
🙂
Alan…. Yes, i’m working on this! I have a building material’s list as well as blueprints.. coming soon!!! 8×12 is the key, in my book… but any questions you may have in the interim, please “fire” away.
Thanks Glenn,
8 x 12 would fit the room I have available in my smallish back yard perfectly. I love the idea of having the changing room also. I haven’t been able to locate any other plans/blueprints etc on the internet for other saunas but the size and shape of your design does appeal to me.
Cheers.
Allen is on track and I have sent him extra doses of Nescafe coffee with instructions and he will dutifully report back to us on his project: building his own authentic Finnish sauna in his backyard. How are you doing on yours? Remember, we all need our own sauna haven, and if money is your setback, consider your own sauna as a permanent vacation, one dollar/kroner and one cedar tongue and groove board at a time!!
I’ve been dreaming of having a sauna for years. Please send a copy of your plan and material list. Much appreciated!
yes please send a materials list. what is your stove, what is your insulating material?
I would also appreciate the 3D plans to this sauna!
Thank you!
I have been looking for a nice outdoor sauna room. Please email me the plans.
Thanks
Niky
Hi Niky:
I will be posting the plans as soon, please check back.
Hi Alex, coming soon~
Ken, the insulating material can be conventional batting (R13, etc.) or rigid pink foam between joists, but a critical vapor barrier is bubble foil insulation. It comes in rolls, like Christmas wrapping paper. Staple to joists, use foil tape for seams, then t&g cedar over. Reflective foil vapor barrier! You can see a picture of it here:
http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.farmtek.com/wcsstore/EngineeringServices/allbizunits/prodimages/full/103861a.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.farmtek.com/farm/supplies/prod1%3Bft1_tekfoil_reflective_foil_insulation%3B4ea1efa6.html&usg=__gW8jQeIZT49twbfbOtZteu6jdao=&h=220&w=220&sz=19&hl=en&start=6&sig2=ws8ARJdWEeUmu6Wrq_3cuw&um=1&tbnid=ryj5LeTgQ83wKM:&tbnh=107&tbnw=107&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dbubble%2Bfoil%2Binsulation%26hl%3Den%26client%3Dfirefox-a%26rls%3Dorg.mozilla:en-US:official%26sa%3DN%26um%3D1&ei=MWuFSsa-MtCslAfU_dnABQ
We’ve been searching how to build a sauna also.The plans and materials would be much appreciated.Thank you
I can build the sauna no problem but what about a wood fired heater. What are some good sources and those that will help me keep the costs down?
Are there plans for a home welded stove for example?
Ken:
One key material in building your own sauna: foil bubble wrap insulation.
wood fired heater: There are imported ones from Finland, but to me, there is only one source you need to know for procuring a wood fired heater: http://www.lamppakuuma.com. Call Daryl, mention Glenn and saunatimes, he’s a great guy.
With the Kuuma stove, you don’t need to weld your own stove. Once you see his product, you’ll see what I mean.
Keep in touch.
please send the materials list and blueprint! Thanks!!!
Hi Glenn, can you send me the materials list and blueprints please. Thank you.
sisu! could i get a copy of the prints and materials list? i have wanted one forever
Just moved to northern michigan and have to build a sauna. Would love to get the materials list and blueprint for your “perfect sauna”. Looks like just the ticket. Thanks!
Could I get the 3D file as well? Just downloaded the Google application so I can check it out. Thanks again. Great website!
Mark:
Please note my recent post, https://www.saunatimes.com/2009/10/12/build-your-own-sauna-materials-list/. I will be scanning the blueprints shortly and will post. Glad you dig the website and hope this helps.
Hi, We’ve been looking for some design plans for our non-profit ski club here in southwestern Maine. We have the room to put one out side of our “chalet”, really a bunk house for skiers, we also have a wood stove that puts out a ton of heat that we don’t use much because of a negative drat in the cellar of the lodge. Is there a big issue with using a wood stove not designed for a sauna specifically. I think this one would work well because we could load it from the side or the front.. You thoughts??Also If you have a materials list for you superb looking sauna, I would like to get a copy.
Thanks and best regards. Ed
Well I guess I’m a dodunk for not following the thread. I found the list after posting my last comment.. Thanks!!
Ed
Hi Ed. I can’t speak to your existing stove. If it works well, go for it, but I like an actual sauna stove for many reasons including drafting and wood burning efficiency. Glad you found my building material’s list for the 8×12 sauna. link here: https://www.saunatimes.com/2009/10/12/build-your-own-sauna-materials-list/
Before you commit to building a sauna,, think about how many will be using the sauna. I wrote this post partly in jest, but there is something to the “sauna equation”, from this post:
https://www.saunatimes.com/2009/04/06/sauna-party-april-2nd-2009-minneapolis-mn-usa/
Nothing like a few sauna rounds after skiing. I like it tons better than a hot tub, no rodent killing chemicals and no alligator hide skin afterward.
I’m second generation Finnish and grew up with wood burning saunas. Finally, planning to build one here in Maine. I would appreciate plans and materials help. Thanks
You have a great website. Could you send me 3D Sauna Plan download? I have been in many saunas or what my wife from Russia call “banyas’ for quite a few years and they are awesome. We want to build our own now that we have our own place in the country. We live in Texas by the way. So, “howdy” from Texas. So, if I download Google Sketch up I can look at your 3 D Plan? Will I be able to use these palns to build our own? Thanks! Can’t wait for a reply. Darryl
Hi Darryl:
Bad News: I lost the Google sketch up file when my computer crashed.
Good News: You don’t need it. Just build an 8×12 shed and frame an interior wall so you have a 6’x7’4″ interior room for the sauna. (your changing room will end up being about 5’x7’4″). Also, consider doing an ‘L’ bench vs. the dual bench, previously illustrated. I just built exactly this, and I’ll post pics. Glad you dig the website!! It warms me. PS.. $9k is about the price for what i’ve put into it.
I think you would benefit from a Kuuma Stove. Daryl Lamppa is 3rd generation Finnish, and it will resonate well with you. I can’t believe how well it holds the heat in our MN cold.
Found your blog by googling Philadelphia called sauna. Your 8×12 sauna has me thinking that may be the right size for a replacement sauna at my place UP on the Tundra. The 8×12 size is small enough that you don’t need a building permit as it is under 100 sq.ft.
GHreatdesign! Can you send me the bluep rints or direct me where to get them? Thanks
Who says you can’t make up blue prints on a napkin? check here: https://www.saunatimes.com/2009/11/15/8×12-sauna-blueprints/
MY HUSBAND AND SON WILL BUILD BUT I HAVE TO SPRING FOR THE WOOD STOVE. YOUR PLAN IS PERFECT FOR US..SMALL! AT 70YRS PLUS..NO PLANS FOR SAUNA PARTYS. CAN YOU SEND PLANS PLEASE.I HOPE TO BE ABLE TO SAUNA BY FALL BUT WITH FISHING AND GOLF SEASON BEGINING MENFOLK SEEM TO DISSAPEAR!
Hi Suzanne: I’ll email you separately with a senior’s discount on my free sauna plans.
hoping to build one this fall and would love the plans for the perfect sauna
start here: https://www.saunatimes.com/category/building-a-sauna/page/3/, keep in touch.
How do you route the chimney if the stove is right in the center?
For the chimney you just give it 2x 90 degrees angles… Up out the stove, 90°, horizontal through wall, 90°, up past the roof. The horizontal part must have a up angle to allow the fumes to go UP the chimney. In our zone it’s 1/4″ for every 12 inches length. I put my stove in the center of the wall, and I built one L shape bench on one side, and one straight bench on the other. I also found a perfect size and cheap stove, it’s for temporary buildings (my sauna is a temporary building since it’s not on a cement patch) and it’s called the Hunter model, from Drolet in Canada. http://www.drolet.ca/en/products/wood/the-hunter-stove Good luck yall with your projects!
So, I have to ask: is there a reason why your bench seating isn’t oriented in an L position, and is instead facing each other with the stove in between? I would think if your stove was located to the right of your entry door, you could fit a nice L shaped seating and have more distance from the stove and the closest lower bench, allowing more people to sit without getting burned up by the proximity to the stove. Thoughts?
Hi Glenn,
I’m interested in building a small 3 person steam room and sauna building outside with a dressing room on each side so I would build two seperate entrances one for the sauna and one for the steam room both being similar in size as your sauna room
Can you send me the plans and material list to give me some ideas I will share my finished product with you.
Thank you
Sherry & Ron
Sherry, Ron:
This is a good idea. My ebook will help you. Happy to help. Happy to share ideas, like you’re going to have plumbing out to the building. so maybe the steam room could double as a shower. https://www.saunatimes.com/diy-sauna-ebook/
Typical room sizes are from 4 by 4 feet to 8 by 12 feet. When planning a sauna’s size
We’re looking at an 8 x 12 structure for our sauna. We’ve been debating if a change room is a necessity being that our Northern Ontario cottage is only 3 seasons. My thought process is we are building a sauna to sauna – why use half the building to store some towels when towel can be stored in the cottage and hangers on the exterior will do the trick – plus we’d be able to fit more people comfortably as we typically have friends/family at the cottage. What are some cons for building an 8 X 12 sauna? Will we use that much more wood?
Glen: Regarding big(ger) sauna hot rooms, please read here: https://www.saunatimes.com/building-a-sauna/big-homes-big-cars-big-cheeseburgers-dont-build-big-saunas/.
Regarding changing rooms, please read here: https://www.saunatimes.com/building-a-sauna/does-the-sauna-changing-room-need-a-new-name/. Though not a hard fast rule, even in three seasons, having a temperate zone from hot room to outside is most welcome (if not critical). If you build without a changing room, i’ll still come visit and we could have a great sauna, but there are these times when the cool down experience is best had in a zone at which the temperature can be controlled (hot room door open or outside door open for a few seconds). BONUS: If you EVER decide to visit your Northern Ontario cottage in the 4th season, you will be digging yourself beyond measure.
Hello Glenn,
I am a lucky builder of my one and only house.
Instead of a fancy bathroom with a tub I will not use I put a sauna into the plans.
The time arrived that I have to come up with the final details.
As far as I understand rules and regulations I can only run it on electric.
I decided on the Huum drop stove because I love the design and the logic behind
the fact that a huge amount of hot stones might be as close to the deep warmth only wood provides.
I just made my donation to your ebook and hope to find good enough instructions for my 6×7 shangrila.
Also I would not mind any extra support/suggestions.
Loeyly greetings
Claudia
Claudia: Your sauna and house project sounds fabulous. 6×7 can work fine, especially with the smaller electric stove. I really like the bench design detailed in the ebook, and nuances like a low bench that can slide and tuck under the upper bench for easy cleaning, etc. Consider “candle window” again, as detailed in the ebook. It’ll be awesome and keep in touch.
Glenn:
We just looked and and really liked your plans.
1. What did you use for flooring? Did you insulate it? Is your sauna in Minneapolis?
If you have plans, we’d love to have a copy. We live in Grand Marais and wonder if we should go with 2×6 walls. Any ideas on that?
Hi Jerry:
Flooring: 3/4″ subfloor, durarock then skim coated with drain. Insulate. Rigid 2″ between joist cavities but not critical.
Minnesota: Yes, I built our sauna on Lake Vermilion and backyard in Minneapolis. Have built others in other places too.
Plans: For sure, all is detailed in my ebook, Sauna Build from Start to Finnish. click over here —–>
2×6 walls: not necessary. Actually, i’d suggest 2×4 as it’s crazy how losing 4″ inside dimensions is noticeable/missed. R13 in walls is perfectly fine. R19 minimum in ceiling and I suggest doubling insulation up top. Hope this helps, happy to help.. you’re on your way! g.
Hi Glenn, fellow Sauna Society member Nick here. I’ve been pondering something. After your epic trip to Finland (and taking into account you can now build any structure 200 sq. ft. or less in Minneapolis without a building permit), would you modify the “ideal” sauna size at all from the 8×12?
I’m planning to build this summer.
Nick
Hi Nick:
Well, I’d stick with a 6×8 or 7×7 hot room, yet for the overall structure, bigger may in fact be better as if 200sf secondary structure is allowable, i may be thinking that this could be a killer Up North Backyard Retreat:
https://www.saunatimes.com/building-a-sauna/types-of-saunas/a-12×16-cabin-sauna-thats-a-lot-more-than-just-a-sauna/
Another question, so are we talking 7 or 8 ft. side walls here?
Nick
Nick: Either way. Advantages of:
7′: lower profile building, less boxy unit (preferred to the eye). Less material.
8′: Able to get benches higher (relative to the height of sauna stove).
7’6″ – could be the happy medium?
Thanks. Steve’s sauna build from Tuff Shed was 7 ft, correct?
Nick
Hello, bought your ebook and am soon embarking on this fun summer project. I plan on building a tiny sauna and change room on a 6.5’x10′ trailer. Any idea how heavy the load on the trailer might be? I see that the small kuuma is 375# and am concerned about total weight. Do you have a ballpark idea? Also, how would you line the outside of the floor for durability? Thank you!
Yes, the Kuuma is a beast, but we put the sauna stove over the wheel axle, celebrating applying weight where it makes sense. Our 7×12 fish house mobile saunas are 2,500# with stove and stones, all in.
We build our mobile saunas with aluminum framing. Then marine grade plywood sub floor.
Are you selling & shipping stoves now or soon(ish)? I see that Kuuma is shut down for the time being. Your site couldn’t generate a freight quote to 97211. How do I get one? Thanks!
Started using sauna at my gym about six months ago love it. Gym closed .Got you’re book last week started building today. Pier blocks in 3/4 minus ready for beams. Question should I use housewrap outside framing?
4/12 shed roof Building 8×12 but making inside hot room 6’2 and taking from changing room. Doing two fixed high benches 6’2 with slide out dog eared 4′ below to stay clear of stove and not rake shin coming in through door.Putting an old wood patio door horizontal high as I can above wall mounted findlandia 800 watt stove.
Housewrap: Yes. It will not trap moisture and you won’t get moisture between wall cavities anyway, as you’ll build it right (and follow details within Sauna Build Start to Finnish ebook.
Hi Glenn,
I bought your sauna e-book and have been reading all the articles on your site as I build my own indoor sauna. Thanks for all the helpful info! I have a weird unused space that used to be a stairwell leading from the basement bathroom of our rambler up to what used to be an in-ground swimming pool and is now our backyard. It has cinderblocks and storm cellar-type doors which I removed and roofed. (The first time I’ve ever done something like that! What a sense of accomplishment!) I’m now getting ready to frame the inside and insulate. My question is about the size. The unframed room is 4×6. I realize this is tiny but I’m on a budget and this space is available so it is what it is! I will also be using an “inauthentic” electric stove. hehe!
The ceiling slopes away from the house and is 7 feet at the highest point and about 6.5 feet at the lowest. Anyways, I’m trying to figure out how to insulate in the thinnest way possible so I don’t lose too much space on the walls. I should be able to insulate the ceiling pretty heavily, but if I use 2x4s on the walls the room will shrink quite a bit! Any thoughts you have would be much appreciated.
Can you make it fly with gluing and screwing 2×2’s to the exterior cement foundation, then 1 1/2″ rigid pink between the joist cavities? The 4×8 rigid cuts easily on a table saw, and you can tuck in between your 2×2’s. Then foil, then t&g. That’s how i’d roll!
Thank you! Yes, I was thinking 2x2s as well, but wasn’t sure if insulation that size would be warm enough. Also read that the rigid foam insulation could melt or off gas chemicals due to the high heat? I’m guessing you haven’t had any problems with that or you wouldn’t suggest it. 🙂
Hi Becky:
Just as for every action, there’s an equal and opposite reaction, for every product, there is an equal and opposite freak out.
I go to sleep at night reviewing the Johns Manville product sheets that detail service temp. to 250°f. As well as knowing that i’ve foiled and taped my seams well. Further, as we consider the heat variants in hot room, face of tongue and groove, back face of tongue and groove, face of foil, back face of foil, and the changing room temp of wall, temperature probing tells me that all is well.
Thanks Glenn!
It’s been fun reading your blog and seeing what an active sauna community there is in the Twin Cities. It’s a whole new world to me! I live in the just north of the cities and look forward to embracing this winter and doing some self-care during this stressful time via sauna! I appreciate your feedback. I’ll send some pics when I’m finished. Take Care.
Hey Glen!
Looks awesome! Would it still be possible for you to send me the plan and material list?
I’m looking to make this kind of sauna at my home in Canada.
Cheers,
Ewan
The 8×12 building materials list are within the ebook Sauna Build Start to Finnish.. The spirit of the book is to allow for customization. The plans are not architectural renderings to be followed by a contractor, but more conceptual designs to allow for the sauna builder to advance their right brain thinking and customize elements for their own enjoyment/use/adaptation.
I hope this helps you Ewan. 8×12 is an ideal sauna size (with changing room!) and you’ll see many examples of builds with this dimension sprinkled around this website. (guest posts of inspiration and celebration).
Perfect!
Thanks a lot!
Glenn,
I am going to build an outdoor wood burning sauna on skids so it moveable but not really transportable.
I spoke with Daryl about a stove and he encouraged me to build 8′ x 16′ x 8′ as opposed to 8′ x 12′ x 7′.
Curious about your thoughts?
Planning to deck floor joists with treated 1/2″ plywood, then flip it and attach to skids with angled structural screws, fill the cavities with eps foam and deck it with treated 3/4″ plywood.
Interior walls will be lines with foil bubble wrap over rock wool. Do I still use house wrap on outside of framing? Is this type of detail covered in the ebook?
I like what you’re thinking, and like the idea of house wrap, as it is a breathable product, and we only have access to our exterior plywood one time.
Ebook should very much help you. The outdoor sauna is the sweet spot for the book.
Regarding hot room ceiling. Dale at Lamppa Mfr. and I arm wrestle all the time about optimal hot room height. We should put the banter on YouTube. I’m a 7′ ceiling kind of guy, and Dale likes taller, higher. I am considering an internal stubborn old dog new tricks waiver form that maybe 7’6″ COULD be MAYBE slightly better than 7′ hot room ceiling, but the form is still on my desk.
I have just bought a full spectrum infra red sauna.
Each morning I use it for 10 minutes before breakfast.
I never have stomach “noises”. But…
During use, my stomach makes gurgling sounds.
Does anyone know what is happening?
Is this side effect safe?
Thank you
Allan
Allan,
No idea.
I will say, and with all respect: infrared is not a sauna. This may be the source of the gurgling. Please read here.
Thanks for all the helpful info.
I have a question about my outdoor sauna build in terms of what would be best. I am newbie and am figuring all this out by watching youtube videos, etc. I framed up my walls and then I wrapped the 2x4s in Tyvek and then I put on the 4×8 paneled pine siding. So from outside in I have 1) 4×8 sheets of pine siding 2) Tyvek 2×4 framing.
My question is what should I do next?
Should I fill with r-10 pink foam board and fill the gaps with spray foam insulation and then put my cedar interior boards up? That is what I was thinking.
Is there a better way to do this? Double vapor barrier with the Tyvek on the outside and something else on the inside before I put the cedar up?
Also, should my ceiling have a higher quality insulation than the walls?
I am going to be using an electric heater btw.
Thanks!
Zach
Zach,
First off, be careful about YouTube videos on sauna building. There are a few yahoos out there showing their sauna builds and they are showing really bad form. Kind of like watching how to ice skate videos and they’re pushing off with their ankles.
My ebook only costs $25, and it’ll set you straight. And i’m not out to shake you down for cash, I want you to build a good sauna.
To your questions, Tyvek is not a vapor barrier per se. It breathes, which is a great thing. So, insulate your joist cavities, then foil, then firing strip air gap or no air gap (an ongoing debate that is wrestled in many spots on this website and in the ebook), then paneling.
It’s always good to go more insulation in the ceiling. The way we can do this is 2×4 walls with R13 batting, then 2×6 hot room ceiling with R19 batting, and again all this is detailed in the big upsell of the ebook. You’re doing this project one time, so get away from the yahoos, and you deserve to do it the right way. Sauna on Zach!
Thanks so much for the help! I’ll check out the ebook! I have also watched some of your youtube videos. Great stuff.
One other question. On the ceiling, from outside in I have shingles, tar paper, plywood, and then my 2x4s with blocking at each end. Do I need to leave a gap between the installation and the plywood? I was told by a guy that I might want to drill some holes in the blocking on the ends of the framing so that air can pass through and no cause condensation. Or… Can I just put my r-19 batting right against the plywood, between the 2x4s and call it good?
Zach
Very good Zach. I can tell that you’re thinking. There are a couple of opinions here, but my take is as follows:
R13 vs. R19.
R19 jammed into a 3 1/2″ cavity is no bueno. You will get better performance with R13 in this cavity as that’s how the batting is intended. Insulation works by trapping air, and condensing insulation loses its performance. Hope this makes sense.
Gap.
No gap. Just fill the cavity, foil, and there you go. If your sauna were to be a permanently heated space, well, we’d revisit, but having a sauna that is activated a few hours a week, well, any kind of condensation, etc. is not gonna happen, and if it does, well, there shouldn’t be much and it should not build or get weird.
Sauna on Zach!
Thanks so much for the help! I really appreciate it!
Do you have an electric heater that you recommend? I was thinking this one because the reviews were really strong.
https://amzn.to/3yqH42T
If you have an amazon referral link, feel free to pass it on and I will give you the commission.
My outdoor sauna is about 300cf
Zach
zach, sounds like you are looking to place insulation in the roof joist (rafter) cavities. do you have a peaked ceiling in the hot room? if not, insulation should be laid in the horizontal ceiling joists, with the roof (rafter) cavities empty.
so this creates an “attic” above the hot/changing rooms. you’ll want to ventilate that space with either roof ridge, gable end or soffit vents, or a combination of.
Hey Glenn
I’ve been following your site for about a year and I love the content. Despite the rising cost and of materials, I’m looking to build a 12×20 shed and incorporate a 6×8 ish sauna inside it. I’ll definitely be picking up your ebook, but I wanted to pick your brain before getting started to see if you had any suggestions. I appreciate your time. Thankyou
Hi Glenn!
I’m in the planning stages of my sauna built (just hot room 6×8)
Couple of questions
1. Foundation. I’m thinking putting 2 6×6 beans against the ground (some gravel underneath) us this Ok ? And can I do 2×6 joist ? Or would you go for 2×8
2. Flooring, im thinking cement board with skim coat of vinyl cement. Wife would love to have small round stones embedded , any Tips How to do that ?
Hi Matt:
1. Foundation. Yes, you’re on the right path. I like block, then double 2×6 rim joists with a bit of air flow below. Floor joists 16″ oc, and if you’re up for it, 2″ rigid pink between the floor joists (easily ripped at 14 1/2″ on a table saw. You can add sleepers 2″ down so that the foam can rest flush up against the subfloor. All this is well detailed in my ebook. (upsell link is right there).
2. Flooring. Well, always good to please “the wife” so, as I think about it, because the round stones have depth, and most likely uneven depth, you’ll be building up your floor something more than using 1/2″ cement board with firing strips pitched to drain. So, as I think about your gig, I think i’d be looking at securing cement board directly to the subfloor, then floating your stone tiled floor on top of this. It’s going to involve some thicker mortar and setting stones and leveling / pitching as you go. Tricky work, for us amateurs.
You could think about a hybrid approach, maybe pitching the floor as it is detailed in my ebook. (upsell link is right there), then some sections could be your small round stone embedded section.
Hi Jason,
glad you are enjoying saunatimes. Regarding suggestions for your 12×20 sauna project, yes, I have one suggestion: let’s get going!
To get started you’ll need:
1. 100′ of carpenter string
2. 4 sticks.
3. A cold libation and/or a dose of a preferred substance now legal in about 11 states.
As you mark off your structure, be mindful of sight-lines, shade, sunsets, buffer, etc.
In addition to above, if you have a few 2x4s around, you can begin marking your territory for interior walls. Also, a picnic bench is often a good hot room bench simulator.
This is one of my favorite stages of sauna building. This is when the right brain can really get flowing.
Your outdoor health and wellness retreat has all the chances to be your most favorite place you ever want to go, and it’s going to be just steps out your back door. So, also be mindful of siting your cold plunge zone, outdoor chill out area, etc.
That’s my suggestion on where to get started… and all this and more is detailed in my book. so, I suggest getting that going too.
I am looking to build an outdoor wood burning shed type sauna, probably 8×12. My question/concern is the distance of the chimney from any trees. The site that I am considering using as pine trees behind it and I want to make sure the chimney top is far enough away from the trees. Any advice would be great appreciated.
Hi Sean,
This is a hard one as safe distance from chimney to trees depends upon your wood burning sauna stove, its efficiency, and how you fire it up. I have built saunas nestled in amongst pine trees. I primarily use the Kuuma stove, and I know the stove very well, including its burning efficiency and safety. Because of the combustion design in a Kuuma, the burn is controlled. We control the airflow, tuning the burn rate, which means less blasting air up the chimney.
Further, following the “upside down fire” technique, the ignition of the fire is also more controlled and less “sparky” or smokey.
The first 100 or so saunas, we are never too far away from the action. But now I fire up the sauna (cabin or backyard) and can go for a bike ride with confidence that no sparks are coming up the chimney.
I hope this helps, Sean. As there are no absolutes here. I am sure if there was a “code” written, it would be “cut down anything alive within 100 ft. radius of your chimney”… and that is buzz kill over the top conservative, my opinion.
i don’t believe there are any national codes that dictate clearances between the chimney termination and trees/leaves but the chimney safety institute of america recommends a minimum 15′ clearance. it doesn’t differentiate between a sauna stove and a traditional stove/fireplace but i suppose the physics are the same either way.
https://www.csia.org/firewood.html
Hello Sauna enthusiast:
I am embarking on my first sauna build, wood fired, and gaining enjoyment and knowledge from your blog contributions and questions. After years of traveling in remote Russian winters, I am hooked! Build will be typical Russian Banya Rustic, with some great ideas from all your contributions. The eastern slopes of the Cascade mountains here in Washington will have one day a snow covered sauna, with a retreat attraction thanks to your many ideas. Keep them coming!
In the section titled ‘Let’s ruin the space age look with cement board’ of your book you say “To properly fireguard around your sauna stove, come back and screw in a second layer of cement board using 1” spacers. Start this second layer 1’ off the ground and leave a little gap by the ceiling, to allow for air flow.”
Does that second layer really start 1 foot off the floor?
How do you attach som other non-combustable, such as tile when there is that uneven surface?
Do I need the second layer of durarock if I am going to tile or use some non-combustable rock veneer over the durarock?
Hi Glenn
I hope this message finds you well. I bought your book today!
There must be a mistake somewhere…
I just paid $25USD for a Sauna e-book and all I have received is some Microsoft Word Documents. Certainly with a hot shot website your publication is a little more professional for the price…?
Richard,
If $25 is too much for you, happy to refund. The folder that contains the ebook has a pdf, without (many) photos. Many print this off and use it as physical guide. The individual chapters are each their own files, as many like to refer to each chapter as they go.
I am an amateur, not a professional publicist. All this information from decades of sauna building and helping others is here to help you, which I hope it has/does, and is worth a few crumbles of your hard earned cash.
Glenn, how do I go about getting the plans and material list for the 8 X 12 sauna? I am not all that savvy with PayPal and such. Can I send you payment?
Sure dan, and you’re a kindred spirit as I only prescribe to this PayPal stuff because of the ecommerce – ification, helping others realize their authentic sauna dreams. But you can use any old credit card at check out. Here’s the link, click here, and also, I’ll send you an email.