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Tips to Think About for Your Own Authentic Sauna Build

NOTE:  saunatimes begrudges no one for not applying any of the following sauna building tips to their sauna.  A working sauna is better than no sauna.

1.  A separate structure.

Worthy of retreat.  Not a converted closet or carved out corner in the basement.

An 8'x12' authentic sauna building. A separate space from living area.
An 8’x12′ authentic sauna building. A separate space from living area.

2.  An ample size changing room.

A wonderful hang out space.  Grocery stores have double doors for a reason.  Freezing outside temperatures are not meant to come in contact with wonderfully hot steamy sauna air.  Close the door!

A changing room with windows and hooks and space to chill out.
A changing room with windows and hooks and space to chill out.

3.  A changing room bench.

Not just for sauna use, but you can escape from the busy world and hang out in your changing room and read.

A cozy sauna changing room bench can double as a great hang out space - an "up North" lake cottage feeling steps out your back door.
A cozy sauna changing room bench can double as a great hang out space – an “up North” lake cottage feeling steps out your back door.

4.  A well sized hot room.

Finlanders use 10 cubic meters as a rule of thumb.  A 6’x8′ or 7’x7′ hot room is an ideal size.  7′ tall ceilings for sure.

A lively open hot room: sauna door, candle window and all cedar tongue and groove.
A lively open hot room: sauna door, candle window and all cedar tongue and groove.

5.  24″ wide sauna benches.

Yes, you can make them more narrow, butt you will notice.

Making decent sauna benches require clear cedar stock. 2"x4" material is solid. This design allows breathing.
Making decent sauna benches require clear cedar stock. 2″x4″ material is solid. This design allows breathing.

6.  Trim it nICE.

Trim around the sauna windows.
Trim around the sauna windows.
Trim around the sauna stove pipe along the ceiling.
Trim around the sauna stove pipe along the ceiling.

7.  A kick ass sauna stove.

There are lame stoves and there are great sauna stoves.  You and your sauna deserve a kick ass sauna stove.

Kuuma-woodburning-sauna-stove1

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21 thoughts on “Tips to Think About for Your Own Authentic Sauna Build”

  1. Very nice Glen, I absolutely love traditional saunas to, I built a 8×7 outdoor with electric (harvia) heater, that I use 2 to 3 times daily. I will post some pictures in here sometime, but I put extras in like Cup holders next to the benches and towel & magazine rack, dimming light switch (but I prefer candles) and I found an old Viking sauna porcelain thermometer made in Finland but is in F which is rare. My average sauna temp is around 180 to 190F and I enjoy about 30 min sessions, with plenty of steam, so relaxing, it is like heaven, euphoric even.
    I find electric to be the most convenient for me because I keep mine on all the time. I work at home so when I take a break I like to go for a hot sauna/shower. Even with electric, the heat still comes through the rocks, for a softer heat.

  2. heippa jack,
    u write a lot 🙂
    less speaking n more sauna. have u ever been to a real finnish smoke sauna – in finland?

  3. Thanks for the tips for building a sauna! My wife and I want to have a suana built on our property, so we are trying to figure out what we want. I really like the trim around the sauna stove pipe in that picture. It is a really great accent that brings the room together, I will have to look into something like that.

  4. Ernest: Sauna building allows for both left and right brain thinking (and doing!). Glad you’re moving forward.

  5. Hi Myron: Please use the search bar on saunatimes. If you’re asking questions to build content for your own website, let me offer a suggestion that you first change your content about “infrared saunas” as infrared is not a sauna. Let’s start with that.

  6. it’s in the ebook, but basically you can do what you want in your changing room ceiling. I like taller ish ceilings as they circulate air well and give a smallish room an open cathedral vibe/feel which helps the room feel larger as it breathes.

  7. Glenn, I’m not sure where else to post this question. After reviewing your e-book and reading about the double cement board with 1: space around the stove, I’m confused about one thing. You say to leave a 1 foot gap at the bottom of the outer board and 1′ at the top, allowing for circulation. But I plan to tile river rock on the cement board. why a foot gap at the bottom? All the photos I find are without any gaps.

  8. Hi Mary:

    There’s two ways to look at stove surround.
    1. Double cement board air gap.
    2. Stone surround.

    #1 is a great way to go to as it allows air flow to keep wall relatively cool.
    #2 is a great way to go to help build thermal mass and wave the lampomassa flag.

    I’ve built saunas with both surround methods. And either work great, and it depends on what you want to achieve.

    As you are keen to tile river rock (an awesome direction!) then just do that. Forget the double cement board with air gap. Your new intention is to build a wall with thermal mass that will help radiate heat into your hot room. The thickness and density of your stone will be its own fire retardant. The A job would be to use metal studs for framing around your stove corner. yet our thermal testing meters are telling us that this stone is getting no hotter than 280f, well below the 451f temp. where things combust.

    Hope this helps!

  9. Glenn,
    To properly fireguard around my sauna corner, do I screw the cement board into studs, and then just attach the Terracotta? Or do you still recommend to use 2 layers of cement boards? Is 7″ clearance from the side wall and back enough? Yes, I am going to install the shields

  10. Slava:

    Assuming this is a fixed sauna, and not mobile (with weight constraints), what I suggest for proper fireguard around sauna corner is:
    1. metal studs. (not realistic for me, so, i’ve always just framed with conventional wood 2x joists).
    2. batting.
    3. foil.
    4. Cement board.
    5. tile or cultured stone.

    and 7″ has been just fine, my experience (cabin sauna: 1996, my backyard sauna: 2003).

    Now here’s a nuance: regarding #4, consider a double layer of cement board. Then tile. Benefit?: Please search “lampomassa” in search box above.

    This is one of the differences between am insta-closet-wimpy-tin-can sauna and a kick ass authentic sauna, where any Finn exiting the hot room shall do so with a smile on their face.

  11. I started building my ” sauna-plex ” two weeks ago. 12 x 27 pole building, with a 12 x 10 screened in porch in the rear, overlooking the Iowa River bottom from my 125 foot hillside lot. 6 x 12 sauna/changing room in the middle and an 11 x 12 poker room/man cave in the front. My wife is Latvian so we have a stove coming from Baltic Metal Craft somewhere in transit. I’m pouring the concrete floors Friday. I am debating laying brick myself as I’m a concrete man ( retired ) by trade. Any special brick required?

  12. No special brick required for sauna, per my knowledge. It’s cool down there. Surprisingly cool. Sounds like a great project, James, and send along some pics!

  13. Glenn, in your e-book pg 27 you say: leave a 1′ gap at the bottom of the outer board and a little gap by the ceiling, allowing for air circulation. Did you mean 1″ (one inch)?
    If you did mean a foot gaps, is is possible I do just an inch? I am going to tile the outer board with a natural stone, want it to look really pretty.

  14. Hi Slava:

    As you reference, the book describes one of best and safest ways to do stove surround:
    1. Cement board screwed to the walls, back and sides, up to the ceiling and a 3’x3′ square in the ceiling, boxing out for your chimney.
    2. An inner layer of cement board, 1″ air gap, using spacers.
    3. The inner layer starting about a foot (1′) up from the floor, and ending a few inches from the ceiling. (encouraging air flow).

    For sure you can apply stone to #3. You’ll be mindful of weight and how to best support this inner layer of cement board.

    TRUTH BE TOLD:
    Many, MANY saunas are built with only one layer of cement board, then stone. This is a bit off the reservation of “code” and UL certification.

    We can wrestle to the ground the best way to build our stove surrounds within a stick frame building. And the “A job would be metal studs and fire retardant insulation, then cement board, then your stone.

    But we aren’t masonry tradesmen wearing overalls, we are sauna enthusiasts wearing Troxers. So, like skating on a frozen lake in winter, we try to balance as best we can (and not fall through).

  15. Thanks, Glenn
    Can you please post/email a picture or two with part of your stove corner, sauna room door, and duckboard all visible in one picture so that I can compare the heights and proportions?

    Thanks,
    Slava

  16. Slava:
    You don’t want to see a picture of my stove corners. The OSHA police and Setback Requirement Inspector would reach into his breast pocket for his red flag, for sure. Some call it “cobbler’s kids shoes” in some parts of the world. Each have stood the test of time (cabin sauna: 1996, backyard sauna:2003). Way to go: 7″ from heat shield to cement board wall.

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